Hi Roger, I’m installing my first tile shower over an acrylic shower pan (Sterling) using 4×12 white tile. You mentioned caulking on plane changes and cited wall to floor and wall to tub edge as examples. Best HD/Loweâs grout suggestion for those and I think Iâm set. I want to use it in change of plane as well to eliminate caulk from our showers. Here’s how to fix it: Locations of weep holes in showers, Click here to get an instruction manual for your waterproofing installation. Video Below: This video is also available on YouTube here: If you only want the instructions for mixing Plaster of Paris please go directly to the video. First: Don’t panic. PentaUSA Tile Grout Repairs Renews Fills Tube, 3 Triple Protection, Fast Drying Grout Repair Kit, Heavy-Duty Grout Cleaner - Restore and Renew Grout Line, Easy and Safe to Use, White, 8.8 oz - 250 gr 5.0 out of 5 stars 3 You build and waterproof it in a method that always ends up at the drain in some manner. Tiles start at the base of the bathtub & go up to the ceiling. It’ll be fun. I did speak with the original installer, who strongly asserts that the waterproofing was carefully done, stating that he extended the rubber liner base 8″ up the wall, and applied a liquid waterproofer over the durarock. There is also a 4×1 transom window on one of the three tiled walls. The first reason I consider to simply be regular maintenance and the latter is less of a problem since most major grout manufacturers sell matching caulk. Provided your waterproofing BEHIND the tile is properly tied into the tub so you have a fully waterproof transition from the wall down into the tub you don’t need to have anything there. Creating weep holes in your existing area creates a combination system even though you have a tiled floor. The other route out of the wall is normally to keep building and running until it finds a spot which is not waterproofed and exits in that direction – all too often into the wall cavity and framing, or into the flooring substrate rather than a direction into the drain. First, thus far we have seen no evidence in the crawl space that water is leaking into the framing. If it does not have a specific method to get into the drain it will build up behind that wall tile (unless the shower is not used often enough, in which case it will dry out through the grout lines, similar to your initial issue) or it will find another route out of the wall. The instructions for this caulk specifically state it is for use in “predominantly dry areas”– and so I am mystified why it would be considered appropriate for a shower vs. using a matching silicone caulk. Sadly, in our case, it seems that the water was not properly making its way behind/under the tile to the drain, and thus after time, forcing its way past the grout (or sanded caulk) in that one corner. It is commonly referred to as ‘pink mold’. I am yet to find out about this by May 2021. Some models may come with a convenient nozzle cutter or a swing-out wire puncture tool for caulk tube seals. Again, I let the solution stand on the tile & grout for 30 minutes and scoured for 5 minutes. He discussed issues before and during our own install and was happy to take all our questions. Here, also I have noticed cracked grout around the window. Much has happened since I first posted my query. What about wall to wall (perpendicular to each other)? I let the solution stand on the tile & grout for 30 minutes and scrubbed for about 5 minutes. Yes it will bond, yes it will be okay. We live in CA (earthquakes)… is epoxying change in planes, corners, etc. It sounds to me like that particular corner (and perhaps the entire floor perimeter) has silicone or something trapping the water above the floor. 2) Regarding the change of plans, can I still leave a gap of 1/8 inch at the corner tiles and fill with 100% white silicone (grout will be white) or do you recommend a butt joint? This haze is proving extremely difficult to remove, especially because it’s on marble and acids are a no-no. I normally just avoid the corners when grouting and scrape out any grout that does get in there. I’ve just finished tiling the bathtub walls and two questions if possible . As well my husband did a fair amount of YouTube video searches. That’s why you waterproof the substrate behind the tile. Normally prime first then caulk, but it can be done before the caulking. If not, I would start making alot of calls asking around for a qualified plumber or construction/tile installer for a second opinion. Taking structural movement into consideration caulk is, for me, the logical choice. I like the idea to not have to worry about maintenance with grout until it starts cracking. I would put them about an inch from each corner on the back wall and one on each side wall about an inch from the edge of the shower (inside the glass). I can add that in that corner, there is very little gap between the floor and wall tile, and a because a sanded grout was used instead of unsanded, I am not sure if that is contributing to the problem and perhaps the tile can’t hold on to the grout and this is why the grout failed so quickly after the install. – if you ask a hundred different professionals you will more than likely receive fifty of each answer. It simply isn’t draining the way it should. The tile caulk has a someone grainy texture that mimics that of grout, and am thinking of using that for the movement joint between the floor tiles and the cove molding. The laticrete supplier in my area said the caulk is what they sell. I also plan to remove the grout along the 3 edges of the floor tiles and wall tiles and replace it with 100% silicone caulk ONLY. As far as the ‘dam’, you’re correct, that’s why you need weep holes. Hi Roger, I plan on using epoxy grout in my shower and bathroom and I’m hoping to not have to use caulk. I just cleaned my shower and I do not have any soaps or shampoos that are that color… I am sick to my stomach about this, as we recently had it done in June of this year.. Do you have any suggestions that I may be able to pass along to the contractor to correct this if an issue?? If one tiled surface meets another at a different angle, it should be caulked or siliconed. Apologies for the long query, but I wanted to provide you with as much info as possible. To learn how to use caulk, watch our video: How to Use Caulk. You must decide you are going to use grout at the changes of plane. This would give you the option to have either a plumber or a different installer or contractor cut the dry wall on the backside to investigate what the issue might be. New tile shower installed in June (18×24 porcelain, walls and ceiling, tile sheets over a hand-poured mud pan and liner, which I hope has been properly installed) has developed water seepage from behind the tile at one of the floor corner joints such that the grout remains wet well after the rest of the shower has dried–this has happened three times, most recently last week. Any plane that changes direction is a change of plane. Another issue is that not only will the installer not respond (and frankly, he has lost our trust), we are finding it difficult to find someone local willing to step in and help. Silicone is only aesthetic in that particular application. OK, maybe it’s not bulletproof but you can hit it with a hammer a couple of times before it chips. Water running out of there is a fair indication that it is at least waterproofed behind that area. You can still make weep holes in those changes of plane. I’m confused. Take A Sneak Peak At The Movies Coming Out This Week (8/12) âLook for the helpersâ â Celebrities helping out amid Texas storm Silicone isnât paintable and there is no primer that will stick to it. My guess would be that he installed a bead of silicone at the bottom of the wall for some ridiculous reason. it runs down the wall as normal, then hits some sort of barrier preventing it from running onto the floor, thus seeping into the grout and out. Why do they give different answers? I am new to running my own tiling business and want to use Spectralock 1 grout on all my jobs–it is a new Laticrete pre-mix with epoxy strength. Paint wonât stick to silicone caulk and most polyurethane caulkings. Also do I caulk/silicone changes of plane before grouting or vice versa? The easier, and proper, solution is to silicone first – I just don’t usually do that because of time restraints. Either works, but silicone works better. Most shower installations are over a wood structure of some sort. A local company measured the space and mixed their formula for an exact fit shower base, I love these too. It also keeps stuff out of that joint – stuff like mold or spaghetti sauce…. Grout is a cement-based product and as such is not meant to flex. Our installer did not seal where tub meets tile/grout. Thanks for the speedy reply to my earlier comments, and for sharing your expertise. It can also be caused by hard water deposits. still ok? Here are some of the main types of specialty caulks and their key features. I’ve been seeing cracked grout issues, particularly along the edge where the floor tiles meet the wall tiles. Waterproofing a shower is all about water management. Can you clarify exactly where we should cut these weep holes (I assume along the floor) and how many? The rest of the shower walls are white subway tile. Is that ok? But to get a good looking job you really need to hire a pro who will use thin-set mortar to attach it to the walls, make angle cuts with a wet saw, caulk the top and bottom with a nice small bead of silicone, and grout the joints with âsandless groutâ. The thought of chiseling out old grout to repair cracked grout does not excite me. There are several advantages to using caulk in corners and any other area where there may be a plane change or where tile meets another material such as your bathtub or sink. I am going to use either latasil or laticrete premium acrylic caulk for the changes of plane. Reply Then afterward, caulking over the corner. If that is something I need to use… Then what is it? I am using the Aquadefense to waterproof the entire shower. Beyond that I am unaware of the construction specific to the tiled shower. But! Weâve written several articles about basement insulation and a cost effective approach to basement insulation using foam board and fiberglass insulation.Since writing those articles weâve received quite a few questions about when to use a basement vapor barrier and when not to. The good news is by day 3, no more water had seeped out and the grout now seems dry. For certain projects, you may need a specialty caulk designed for a particular task. My installer will never work with this product again. These small tubes are good for easy touch-ups around the house such as sealing shower tile or the kitchen sink. It is likely Serratia marcescens, which is a type of water-borne bacteria. However if you install glass type tiles one needs a non sanded grout. Will I be OK if I fill with thinset/mesh tape then run a strip of fabric/aquadefense down to the flange? How much time do you think I have before I may have any or more damage than today? I hope you find a good solution. With gaps that large what you can do it install a bead of silicone against one side about 1/8″ thick (leaving the rest of the gap open), then once cured grout between the tile and silicone. It comes in rolls and is used most often for weatherstripping windows and doors. He grouted all changes in plane except for using a matching siliconized sanded acrylic caulk around the shower floor perimeter and in the niches. In our first home I chose a solid onyx base-loved it, fantastically solid. I did not understand that water is meant to run behind the tile wall and under the tile floor to the drain, but this makes perfect sense since grout is porous (I did learn that sealing grout is not a waterproofing step). I don’t care what they say, construction always has wood somewhere that can move. Based on what I have been reading, it is not advisable to caulk over grout. (the sanded vs. non-sanded actually doesn’t have anything to do with it.) I found a simple curtain rod that is long enough for my counter (I recommend measuring before shopping ) and two command ⦠Thanks again for the other tips. Because the water in the wall NEEDS to have a path to the drain. Under will be thinset/mesh tape (might fabric these also). These rolls come with adhesive backing and a fast, no-mess application. My son told me all the cool kids are doin’ it! Reply. It sounds like we need to create some weep holes, but not sure if this can be done at this stage. So, even though the shower has hardly been used and it has been over a year since last use, we have suddenly developed pink grout! Do you have a traditional liner mud bed (the two layers with a liner between)? Finding the problem to fix-i hope you’re guy has returned your call. The second “repair” lasted about 3 months when last week I noticed that once again the grout was staying wet in that corner as compared to the rest of the shower; the moisture seems to be wicking up about 2-3” from the corner, and also across the bottom towards the right. If, after a while, you see water running OUT of the weep holes, you have done exactly what needed to be done – give the water a way to reach the drain. I am currently using Laticrete permacolor select as my goto grout – it’s good stuff too. Do you grout everything, including the corners, then go back and scrap out the grout in the corners, then apply silicone? We have tried cleaning with baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, bubbling bathroom cleaner and Clorox and it has not done the trick. The only time I will use grout for a plane change is when I am using epoxy grout. You MAY get away with the tile to tub transition, but if there is excess movement and you have an acrylic tub the tub may actually end up cracking before the tile. I am worried about creating a water damn of some sort. I would appreciate your thoughts given this new information. Using a larger cartridge (usually 9 to 11 ounces) with a caulk gun will result in a continuous bead of caulk. When using silicone caulk that can't be painted, choose the color that most closely matches the surrounding area, or select clear caulk for an unobtrusive look. That should do it, if it’s not sufficient the shower will let you know by doing the same thing wherever you need another one. Prices, Promotions, styles, and availability may vary. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. I would not silicone over it until you get rid of it, that’ll just cause it to flourish. If you can visit a Home Depot or Lowe’s store ask if they have someone who works in flooring that personally has done tile installing. Maybe while they are there you create the problem for them to observe? I redid our laundry room!! I have used nearly everything for shelves. Wood moves, it’s just a fact of life. What do you think of this plan? Thank you for all of your help. We moved into the house in August 2020. Our tile are over kerdi membrane, shower pan, ditra (on top or drywall / wonderboard). But is it okay to do this? Hi Rodger , I’m a newbie that just found the your super helpful Site . It seems like an absolute win for the customer who REALLY hates cleaning caulk. Many professionals simply grout that corner as they do any other space between the tiles. The weep hole I mentioned will likely solve the issue by allowing water running down the wall to exit onto the floor (above the tile, rather than beneath it). It held for a couple of months and then happened again, so installer asked the plumber who installed the fixtures and pipes for the shower system to verify that the water was not coming from the plumbing or fixtures—all looks good. Altho if it’s at the shower base level that may not be an option. After, cleaning the shower I noticed a Slight discoloration on a few areas on the grout. 4)I like using caulk where all 90 degree corners meet another tile wall or ceiling. They didn’t mention what it was. It is not your grout turning pink. I have no knowledge regarding how your shower base was installed. Zep grout whitener is a great product. Tile is 4×12 with 1/16″ joint. Finishing tools help you make a uniform bead, though some people prefer to just use a wet finger. Latasil will work better, it’s silicone. What you must understand about tile installation is no matter where you are installing the tile, it is always a structure that moves, no matter how minutely. 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